My wife and i met on Bumble, and if you’re familiar with the app, you’ll know that once you match with someone, it is up to the woman to start a conversation first. So having had something about the wine business in my profile, she opened a conversation with me by asking: “What’s better Ontario wine or BC wine?” I wanted to keep the conversation straight forward, but the wine nerd in me could resist: “Well, they’re both equally good, but specialize in different things.” When that wasn’t sufficient enough and she pushed further, I confessed that I think Ontario does things like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay better but BC does better with almost all big reds. Surprisingly, with her being from Vancouver this didn’t ruffle any feathers and we were married 4 years later. Today I still stand by that very rough generalization. Of course there are great examples of excellent Pinot Noir from the Okanagan or Syrah from Niagara, but broadly speaking, I think the beauty is in the diversity of the regions which allows them to specialize in distinctive ways.

Let’s start with Ontario, a bona fide cool climate, moderated by the Great Lakes and grown on various formations of limestone, Niagara is climatically and geologically similar to Burgundy and many vintners have been leaning into a cool climate, mineral driven, Old World style that has garnered international attention for it’s likeness to Burgundy. Certain warmer pockets and microclimates seem to do well with bigger varietals like Syrah and Cab Sauv, but for the most part tend towards cooler climate varietals. When you get up into Prince Edward County where it is even cooler than Niagara and calcareous limestone instead of dolomitic, the wines are even leaner and excellent sparkling wine is possible. Unfortunately when Ontario first began making wine in a more commercial sense back in the 1980’s and early 90’s a lot of hybrid grapes were used, and even after replanting with noble vitis vinifera grapes, much of the quality was quite poor as the region and winemakers were new and inexperienced. The industry has come leaps and bounds since then with some top producers garnering international accolades and critics scores alongside the best of Burgundy. A real source of domestic pride, in my opinion. And that’s not to say Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is all that Ontario can do well, lots of other varieties like Riesling and Cab Franc really excel here, just don’t expect big ripe Napa Valley wines.

Benjamin Bridge Vineyard in the Gaspreau Valley, a sub valley within the Annapolis Valley.

Ontario is not the coolest wine growing climate in Canada. Some people don’t even know that Nova Scotia makes wine, but Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley is on average the coolest growing region in Canada and as such can’t make much in the way of great reds or really ripe fruity whites. But what might seem as a climactic shortcoming is actually their competitive advantage. Because the Bay of Fundy never freezes, it has a moderating effect that keeps the Annapolis Valley cool all summer, and warmer all winter. This allows for an early spring and late fall, providing a very long, cool growing season which is ideal for Sparkling Wine. In addition to the perfect climatic conditions for sparkling, geologically it is a treasure trove of various terroirs. From limestone, to granite, to shale and marine sedimentary soils, the soil complexity can change on a meter by meter basis. And it’s no surprise that now after a few decades of high level experience and consultation with top Champagne producers, Nova Scotia is producing some of the finest sparkling wine in all of North America…if not all of the New World. Aside from some light, lean, and mineral Pinot Noirs from some top producers, there’s not much to write home about in terms of red wine from Nova Scotia. But they more than equiped to take the world by storm in terms of top sparkling wine production.

If you fly to the opposite side of Canada to British Columbia, the Okanagan Valley is producing a dynamic range of wines and some superstar big, full-bodied reds. With varying mountain microclimates, and because the southern Okanagan is an extension of the Sonoran desert from Washington State that comes up from Mexico, this is Canada’s hottest location and warmest grape growing viticultural area. Like in Washington State, or California big red varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, Petit Sirah all do very well and ripen nicely there. Up in Kelowna and Narama nice Pinots and lots of aromatic whites can be found, but without that hard limestone influence, they don’t have the edge on Ontario in that regard. Sandy, silty loam soils dominate the majority of the Okanagan Valley, and areas from Penticton down through Osoyoos and Oliver really showcase how big reds have become British Columbia’s specialty. With upcoming wine regions in the Similkameen Valley and Vancouver Island we’ll likely see more diverse specialization emerge in the coming years.

So between the extremely cool climate for excellent sparkling production on the east coast, to the heavily mineral driven soils and cool climate of Ontario for Burgundian varietals, and British Columbia’s competitive advantage with the Okanagan Valley’s ripening ability for big reds, Canada has some pretty outstanding wine producing regions. As long as consumers begin to understand these specializations, the appreciation for these regions will only increase. An Aussie Shiraz or California Cab drinker from Toronto can’t legitimately expect to drive down into Niagara and find those type of wines there, just as you wouldn’t if you drive into Sancerre or Burgundy looking for a big Syrah. But in knowing what Canada does well and appreciating its diversity is the key. So this week, I’ve picked a top producer from each region for a delicious case-in-point to showcase these regional specialties.

BENJAMIN BRIDGE, NOVA SCOTIA
Benjamin Bridge was founded in 1999 in an attempt to see if top-tier sparkling wine was possible in Canada. Founders Gerry McConnel and Dara Gordon worked with various consultants from Niagara and Champagne and hired winemaker Jean-Benoit Deslaurier to oversee their winemaking and viticulture. Everything is organic, wild yeast fermented and low intervention. Some cuvees also see no sulphate additions, being entirely natural. And because every Champagne house has their own unique Non-Vintage (NV) wine, BB needed to create one as well. The Brut NV is a blend of 55% L’Acadie and 45% Chardonnay, a racy, mineral and complex Blanc de Blancs with over 15 years of reserve wines blended in. I’m not sure there is a more seriously built, complex NV Brut in North America. And their Nova 7 is a completely different beast. This is the biggest selling wine in all of Nova Scotia. It’s a cultural phenomenon. Best way to describe it is a lightly sparkling (frizzante) Canadian version of Moscato D’Asti. As a Muscat blend, it is quite sweet, but the super fresh acidity from the cool climate keeps the wine drinking really crisp and fresh. Notes of citrus, flowers, ripe and gushing peaches and apricots. An ultimate patio-pounder, and also a fantastic pairing with snacks, seafood, and even fresh deserts like sorbet. And we just started bringing these in can formats for easier Covid picnics, camping, or fancy tailgating.
Benjamin Bridge, Brut NV $41 per bottle from Byward Wine Market in Ottawa or Pan Chancho in Kingston
Benjamin Bridge, Nova 7 cans $12 per can from Byward Wine Market in Ottawa or Pan Chancho in Kingston

TAWSE WINERY, NIAGARA
Started by Moray Tawse in 2001, it was built with a several story high gravity flow system, and it was the 2nd biodyanmic winery in Canada (after Southbrook). Tawse has won more “Winery of the Year” awards at the Canadian wine awards than any other winery and has been recognized by many critics internationally as producing some of the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay outside of Burgundy. So this week we are looking at their 2018 Chardonnay and their 2019 Grower’s Blend Pinot Noir. These are really great values considering the majority of Tawse labels are $30-70 per bottle. These particular bottles aren’t certified organic or biodynamic because they also source from other farmers who may not have certifications. All of Tawse-owned properties are Organic and Biodynamic certified, but even if another farmer is growing organically, once they include those grapes they cannot have the certification. But the general philosophy has been organics and biodynamics at Tawse years before it was popular in 2006. In the Chard look for baked apple notes with minerality, brioche, and citrus. A savoury and complex wine that lingers with some slight vanilla and salinity. The Pinot Noir is lean and structured, but with a plush nose of red berries, flowers, some earth and a touch of cedar. Moray Tawse also owns several vineyard properties in Burgundy along with his partner Pascal Marchand…so these guys kinda know Burgundy.
Tawse, Chardonnay 2018, $21 from Byward Wine Market in Ottawa or Pan Chancho in Kingston
Tawse, Pinot Noir ‘Grower’s Blend’ 2019, $23 from Byward Wine Market in Ottawa or Pan Chancho Kingston

PAINTED ROCK WINERY, OKANAGAN VALLEY
Painted Rock vineyard and winery are situated on a pretty special outcropping of an elevated bench with a surrounding rock wall amplitheatre. It’s called the Skaha Bench and it sits 200 ft above Skaha Lake, just south of Penticton. In 2004 John Skinner purchased the 56 acre bench and in 2005 planted 27 acres to Bordeaux varietals plus Syrah and Chardonnay. This special west-facing, elevated microclimate gets additional ripening from the lake reflection and the heat radiating off the surrounding rock wall. It has been one of the most awarded wineries from BC, particularly from the UK and the wine writers there who are the world’s biggest consumers of Bordeaux and Bordeaux-style wines. In 2012 I went and lived on the estate for several weeks and helped with harvest and crush. It was years before they built the fancy new tasting room at the top of the hill, and when they were still carving out their niche and getting onto international radars. Click here for a post I did following my brief winemaking stint at the winery. This week we’re featuring the Painted Rock Syrah and Merlot. They are a bit pricey, but if you’re the type of person looking to explore new things and be impressed, I’d say go for one of these. Too often people will spend this money on Bordeaux or Napa, but scoff at paying those prices for Canadian wines. These are precisely the Canadian wines that need that attention paid to them. The Syrah reminds of Northern Rhone, Cote Rotie or Saint Joseph styles with a lean but rich profile with dark fruit, earth, smoked meat, some earth and pencil shavings. The Merlot evokes great Right Bank Bordeaux style wines. Think plums, violets, licorice, and earth.
Painted Rock, Merlot $69 at Byward Wine Market in Ottawa and Pan Chancho in Kingston
Painted Rock, Syrah $75 at Byward Wine Market in Ottawa and Pan Chancho in Kingston

As you can see, there’s lots to chat about with Canadian wines. We’ll discuss all this and more on Saturday’s 7pm wine Zoom. All 6 wines are available through Lifford by the case, or by the bottle in Ottawa at the Byward Wine Market and in Kingston at Pan Chancho. The Zoom is free for anyone who purchases at least 1 of the featured wines. Then just send me a quick email to let me know what you have and I’ll send you the Zoom link on Saturday afternoon!

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The Byward Wine Market is fully open for in person shopping, as well as online orders offering curbside pickup or local delivery within Ottawa. And just a reminder that the order deadline for Friday case deliveries is Wednesday before 9:00am. Reach out if you have any questions, and check out the archive of past FEATURES if you’re interested in other recommendations. Lastly, please feel free to forward this to anyone in Ontario who may be interested in home wine delivery and follow us on Instagram for daily wine content at @bywardwinemarket!