Vertical Tasting with Norm Hardie
We followed with the 06 County Pinot which was overall my second favorite of the lot. It had an aroma nearly as intense as the 2005, but with quite an impressive structure. This wine was likely at its peak, but not passed yet. Very Burgundian on the nose and palate with its barnyard and cherries with soft tannins and bright acidity. Awesome wine.
Then we got to the famed 2007 vintage, and it was a little underwhelming by comparison. I know that wine will yield dividends in the years to come and it has been judged as one of the standout Pinot Noirs from Ontario, but it was still relatively tight compared to the other wines of the evening. It shows nice dark cherry and strawberry fruit with Norm's trademark earthy nose and minerally palate, it was just not quite as opulent yet as the rest of the line was currently showing. The famously great year of 2007 was followed by the notoriously bad year of 2008...which of course would have to have been voted the wine of the evening...
2008 is a great example of making the best of a bad year. In 2008 with late rains and not as warm a fall Norm had to play "winemaker" more than usual. In this case it meant leaving the juice on the skins for a shorter period of time and bottling the wines unfiltered to retain more character. I remember loving this wine immediately after bottling, and still today it was the show stopper. It will undoubtedly have a shorter lifespan than its predeceasing 2007, but as of today was still drinking fantastically. It was the perfect blend of earthy, funky, barnyard with great ripe cherry fruit and minerality to wow everybody. I think everybody expected to love the much lauded 2007, but came away loving the 2008 underdog!
The current vintage of 2009 showed really well. Having been put freshly to bottle earlier this year it was showing obvious youth next to the rest of the wines, but looked to be headed in a direction somewhere between the 07 and 08. It had great structure that seemed like it will hang around for a while, but had very approachable fruit with that classic Hardie funkiness already. It was drinking really really well for being so young.
The evening rounded out with Denis pulling out a surprise bottle of 2004 Niagara Pinot Noir. This was Norm's very first Ontario vintage. The year before his county fruit was ready he was already working with his Niagara vineyard. So while '05 was his county debut, '04 was the first official Norman Hardie wine. This wine was super interesting. At first it was the earthiest wine we had all night, and still fairly built on the palate. But then it began swaying back and forth between notes of volatile acidity and fresh fruit. It eventually settled into a testy Dijon kind of nose with a still edgy palate. Norm's analysis was that it was just passing its peak and was beginning to show some volatile acidity. But again, very impressive for 7 year old Pinot Noir on his first attempt!
Overall it was an incredible opportunity to taste all those wines side by side with Norm leading us through the tasting. I think in the end everybody enjoyed the '08 the most, followed by the '06 then the '07 and '09, which are signs of good things to come!